How Momofuku Ando invented instant ramen — and transformed Japanese cuisine

Jack 007 2015-03-05

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How Momofuku Ando invented instant ramen — and transformed Japanese cuisine

Momofuku Ando, who invented ramen instant noodles, would have celebrated his 105th birthday today. In addition to inspiring hip restaurants (and Google Doodles), he earned the adoration of a nation. In a 2000 poll, Japanese respondents said instant ramen was the country's top invention of the 20th century.

Ando died at 96 in January 2007, but his legacy endures — not least due to the widespread popularity of his most famous invention.
How Momofuku Ando invented instant ramen in his 40s
Momfuku Ando was born as Wu Baifu in Taiwan in 1910, and after World War II he emigrated to Japan and took his new name. There, he pursued a medley of jobs — including sock sales and making salt — while tinkering with recipes.

But it wasn't until he was in his 40s that ramen inspiration struck. Ando provided a mythical origin story for his middle-aged dabbling in food, as Karen Leibowitz explains at Gizmodo. In his biography, he claimed he was struck by inspiration when he saw people huddled around a ramen stall in postwar Osaka. With food shortages rampant, he believed noodles could cure world hunger.

Of course, there are cracks in the corporate origin story — Ando didn't start Nissin until 1958, well into the postwar period. The product also got its start as a relatively luxurious convenience food, since the first "Chikin Ramen" sold in Japan cost more than fresh noodles did. (Ando's background as businessman wasn't as blameless as the corporate myth implies, either — in 1948, he went to jail for tax evasion, though in he claimed it was for providing scholarships for students.)

Regardless of how altruistic instant noodles were, the story remains inspiring. They were the product of a 48-year-old tinkerer who invented flash-frying noodles so they could be quickly cooked in boiling water. He followed that with the 1971 invention of Cup Noodles, which were inspired by customers who reused coffee cups as ramen bowls. Instant noodles took off, and competitors like Maruchan built off the innovation.
Ando's philosophical take on running an instant noodle company
Even though Ando was head of a big business that that recorded $300 million in profits at the time of his death in 2007, he still enjoyed being an instant noodle sage in between cups of ramen and rounds of golf. Occasionally, he enlightened employees by shouting "What are you doing now?" at random intervals, but he also had a more serene approach to management.

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