At 2am when even the most energetic Parisians are calling it a night, Jean-Yves Boullier is getting up to start baking off his first batch of iconic "tradition" baguettes. "There's nothing in them but flour and savoir faire," says the 46-year-old, who, after 30 years of baking experience, hopes that the baker's union will succeed in securing UNESCO World Heritage status for the baguette, whose popularity has declined with the rise of gluten-free alternatives and low-carb diets.